11 Unmissables of Guilin and Yangshuo
The land of the karst giants
Located in southern China, Gui Lin 桂林 and Yang Shuo 阳朔 are geographically so close to Vietnam which explains the mild weather all year round. Nothing can fully prepare you to be soaking in the neolithic pre-Sapiens structures of this region’s karst peaks. Here are the 11 things you cannot miss in Gui Lin & Yang Shuo:
1. Li River Cruise
As early as Tang Dynasty (618–907), the famous poet Han Yu 韩愈 was fascinated by the scenic beauty of Li River. He described this fairyland as where “the river winds like a green silk ribbon, while the hills are like jade hairpins 江作青罗带, 山如碧玉簪”.
The 4-hour cruise from Gui Lin to Yangshuo provides a scenic ride to enjoy one of the most beautiful Chinese landscapes which have inspired numerous Chinese paintings and poems. The cruise ticket costs about ¥300–400 per person, inclusive of lunch. This should be the maximum amount you need to pay for sofa-style seating and a clean toilet. Be careful if you book anything cheaper — I have read horror stories of dirty toilets and cramped boats. If you are going budget, try the bamboo raft cruise should the weather permits. Do know that people aged under 7 and above 70 are not allowed on the bamboo raft. It takes 1 hour to drive to Yang Shuo from Gui Lin, but do you really want to miss out on this scene commemorated on ¥20 note?
2. Liu San Jie Impression show, Yangshuo
Produced by Zhang Yi Mou, this new concept of outdoor opera and the light show uses nature as an integral part of its performance. Every single evening on the Li River stage, against the mist-shrouded hills backdrop, there are 300 casts singing and dancing — reenacting the lives of the Gui Lin culture and people. The entire one-hour performance is outdoor so make sure you wear something warm.
The actually-impressive Impression Shows also occur in Hangzhou’s Westlake (closed in winter), Lijiang’s Dragon Snow Mountain, Chongqing’s Wulong, Pingyao, Wuyishan’s Dahongpao and Putuo. Each one is unique in demonstrating local culture and folklore.
3. Two River and Four Lake night cruise, Gui Lin
The waterway cruises will take you to the underside of the marble bridges where intricate scenes are carved on its surfaces. In addition, there are performances playing every night in the various pavilions floating above the lake.
The cruise is named after the city water system which paves the route of the cruise. This system is comprised of the following rivers and lakes: Li 漓江 river; Tao Hua 桃花 (Peach Blossom) river; Rong 荣 (Banyan tree) lake; Shan 杉 (Chinese fir) lake; Gui 桂 (Osmanthus tree) lake; and Mu Long 木龙 (Wooden dragon) lake.
4. Reed Flute Cave 芦笛岩 Lúdí Yán, Gui Lin
This is one of the most impressive karst cave I have ever been in, on par with the Clearwater in Mulu, Sarawak and Jomblang in Yogyakarta, Indonesia. There are countless of limestone caves in Gui Lin, but I only had time to visit one.
While some people think the colourful lighting ruins the cave experience, I personally think it provides a different way to appreciate these caves. So enjoy your visit, but do mind the pearl scam where you are given a voucher to “pick a pearl for free”. Once you hand the voucher to a lady, she will crack a shell open, attach the pearl to a necklace chain and force you to pay for the chain.
5. Yang Shuo Park, Yang Shuo
This park provides a panoramic view of the Li River and the karst mountain formations. The entrance fee is ¥30 for foreigners but it was worth it. I went in the afternoon but if you go in the morning, you might just catch the locals dancing and taichi-ing.
6. West Street 西街 Xi Jie, Yang Shuo
The name is derived from the Westerners who supposedly came to Yangshuo and never left, however, over the years, local tourists have replaced them. This area makes a pleasant stroll at nigh t. I’m a grandma so I didn’t really fancy the large window, street bar scenes which felt similar to Beijing’s Sanlitun 三里屯.
7. Yu Long He 遇龙河, Yang Shuo
Known as ‘the Little Li River’, a cruise down this tributary of Li river is like floating through a Chinese poem, surrounded by the gentle swaying of Chinese wisteria. While the rafts on the Li river are driven by noisy motors, the bamboo rafts on the Yulong River are quietly punted by a man with a pole
You could take a leisurely 1-hour cruise from the ancient Yulong stone bridge and request the punter to pause in different spots along the river.
If you are into more adrenaline activities, you could find other scenic areas more appropriate for climbing and bike riding, one of the most notable is Moon Hill.
8. Shi Wai Tao Yuan 世外桃源, Yang Shuo
This is a cultural park with traditional-style villages offering interactive education on local tribe culture, including a short river cruise and handicrafts. The park can feel touristy, nevertheless, it provides a pleasant way to educate yourself on the local minorities’ culture, especially compared to the text-heavy Guilin’s Guang Xi Museum of Nationalities 广西壮族自治区博物馆 Guangxi Zhuangzu Zizhiqu Bowuguan.
9. Elephant Trunk Hill, Gui Lin
This is one of the attractions in a park in Guilin. The 1.5 hours peak climb is perfect for a morning of afternoon stroll but incurs an additional fee. It must have been impressive when the river flowed through its hollow, but now the water level has decreased significantly, ultimately driving out the cruise businesses.
10. Alila Yangshuo
I have a soft spot for adaptive reuse architecture projects. This sugar mill turned five-star hotel by Vector Architects (wh was also behind the architecture wet dream beachside resort, Aranya) would have been fascinating to explore but I ran out of time. So do let me know what it’s like if you have the chance to visit.
11. Longsheng Rice Terrace
With a history of more than 700 years, the area is still being used for growing premium quality rice by Yao and Zhuang villagers. The ribbon-like rice terraces are originally built in Yuan Dynasty and completed in the early Qing Dynasty. This ingenious construction makes the best use of the scarce arable land and water resources in the mountainous area.
Given that my visit was in November, I had just missed out on the harvest season hence decided to save this for another trip. More details on when to visit here or here.
This post is part of the Life in China series.1. China Survival Guide
Apps that will make your Chinese experience a whole lot better2. China Through Films
Cinematic trips into the voyage of the breathtaking world of traditional and contemporary China, and whatever lies in between.3. Qinghai Road Trip
The Qinghai ring road, beautiful rape flowers, lush grasslands, Tibetan temples, and more.I hope they will help you begin to understand this mind-boggling country.
