24 Hours in Helsinki
As the happiest country in the world two years running, they must be doing something right. Let’s find out in 24 hours
As the stepchild of Northern Europe, Finland is known for its distinctly different culture to its Scandinavian counterparts. But as the happiest country in the world two years running (World Happiness Report 2018 and 2019), they must be doing something right. They even have this program called RentAFinn, which you can apply to spend a little time with actual Finnish people and find your happiness in Finland.
One day was very little time to soak it all in but I hope this guide will help you quickly absorb this compact yet beautiful city.
Oodi — Helsinki Central Library
“Finland is a country of readers,” declared the country’s UK ambassador Päivi Luostarinen. In 2016 the UN named Finland the world’s most literate nation, and Finns are among the world’s most enthusiastic users of public libraries. The country’s 5.5m million people borrow close to 68m books a year.
This new public library, inaugurated only in December 2018 is more than just books. It has robot and human staffs, makers’ space, gaming rooms, sweeping floor children play-areas and more. If you are not convinced yet, you can read about my obsession with this space.
PS: Since Oodi is situated in Töölönlahti, the heart of Helsinki’s cultural district, if you have time visit Helsinki Music Centre and Kiasma Museum of Contemporary Art next door.
Were you really in Helsinki if you did not see a single Alvar Aalto’s building? The Finnish architect created buildings that celebrated light and nature even in the darkest days of Scandinavian winter. Finlandia Hall is one such example with its Carrara marble facade.
This architecture piece is a dynamic, multipurpose venue located in the centre of Helsinki and was inaugurated in 1971. The building is the fruit of Aalto’s long career as an architect as he oversaw every aspect of the venue’s design, from its asymmetrical exterior to the design of each lamp, piece of furniture, panel, flooring material and decorative board used in the interiors. Aalto’s basic view was that architecture should create a frame for human beings, which is why the interior design is a tribute to detail.
Unfortunately, the Italian Carrara marbles had been unable to withstand the harsh Finnish climate. The thin slabs began to curve and had to be replaced with thicker replacements but even these replacements have begun to curve again. I guess buildings are like humans, some of them are high-maintenance and rightly so.
The hall was closed during my visit, so don’t be silly like me and book your guided tour in cooperation with Aalto Foundation here.
Kampii Chapel
Located in Narinkkatori square and designed by K2S Architects in 2012, this chapel is located in a pedestrian area at the entrance of the Kampii shopping centre. Instead of a place of worship, the Chapel provides a place of quiet and silence. The curved shape of the small-scale chapel building allows space and views to flow in the urban surroundings. At the same time, the soft shape of the inside of the Chapel embraces the visitor in its safety.
Narinkkaatori square got its name from Russian words на рынке ( narynke which means ‘on the market’) because between 1876 and 1929, the Jews and the Russians used to sell used clothes here. Now the square is filled with curved structure swooping up from the ground. These are the roof windows of the Amos Rex museum, that you can sit on. Many kids climbed them and you can peek into the museum from there.
Naughty BRGR
It’s not an exaggeration to call this Finland’s best burger. Naughty BRGR is the fruit of ten-year research done by Top Chef Finland winner Akseli Herlevi, who figured out the best flavors and compositions of a great burger.
Waiting time is at least 30 minutes, and I took a risk waiting for this burger knowing I had a ferry to catch but boy, it was worth it. The interior was cool and the staffs were great. They saw how nervous I felt since I was so pressed for time and handed me a Finnish soda to try.
Please order at least 2 burgers for yourself, you won’t regret it.
Academia Bookstore
Spend the afternoon in Scandinavia’s largest bookstore, Akateeminen Kirjakauppa (its Finnish name) also designed by low and behold .. Alvar Aalto. The furniture in the cafe was also designed by the world-renowned architect. If you are a heartless savage who don’t like architecture or books, the hot chocolate here is supposedly very delicious. I never had time to sit down since I spent my time at Naughty, so let me know the verdict.
Senate Square
Senate Square has been the main square of Helsinki since the 17th century. It was transformed into its current form in the early 19th century when Russian Tsar Alexander II (whose statue is erected in the middle of the square) moved the capital of Finland from Turku to Helsinki.
The square is dominated by early 19th-century neo-classical buildings designed by Carl Ludvig Engel (1778–1840) which represents the four powers of the state (church, senate, university and commerce) conceived at the time: Helsinki Cathedral; the Government Palace; the main building of the University of Helsinki and the National Library of Finland, as well as Helsinki’s oldest stone building, Soderholm House which now hosts Helsinki City Museum.
The Senate Square also hosts a sound installation called the Sound of the Senate Square which can be heard every day at 17:49 as it travels from one building to the next. The composition runs for 5 minutes 18 seconds and is composed by Harri Viitanen and Jyrki Alakuijala.
Over the decades, the steps have become a public space for locals and tourists alike. If you have time, you can wander to Esplanade park and Market Square which are just a block away.
National Library of Finland
Before you leave Senate square though, drop by Finland’s biggest and oldest scholarly library. The National Library of Finland is one of the University of Helsinki’s biggest independent institutes.
The architect Engel combined classical themes with references to the ancient world in a unique way: the symmetrical placement and the layout of the library halls were derived from the bathhouses of the Roman Emperor Diocletian, while the façades were arranged according to Classical temple architecture. Basically, THIS LIBRARY IS JUST BEAUTIFUL. If you are still curious about the Finnish love for libraries, check out the rest of them here.
Helsinki Train Station
Make sure to visit one of the world’s most beautiful stations here in Helsinki (according to BBC). Built mostly in Finnish granite, the most recognisable features are the clock towers along with its pair of lantern carrier statues at one of the entrances.
Uspenski Cathedral
This Orthodox church commemorated the Russian occupation of Finland until 1917. Designed by a Russian architect, the church is set upon on a hillside on the Katajanokka peninsula overlooking the city. I did not get to go since I ran out of time but it is supposed to be one of the beautiful, old architectures of the city.
It is located in Katajanokka district that is separated from the mainland by the canal in central Helsinki. Wander through the fascinating neighbourhood for the eclectic range of architecture from the early 20th century.
Google Map
I’ve compiled the abovementioned places and more in Google Map. This should make it easier for you to figure out your proximity to the listed places, their ratings/reviews, and opening hours.
I sincerely hope you have more time than I did because there is A LOT to do in Finland. I’ve vowed to return here for the sauna, the summer island hopping, Lapland’s Santa Claus village, and the aurora in the Arctic Circle.
This post is part of the Europa series, which shows more than just the historical Europe.1. Oodi, The Library of the People
As the world’s most literate nation, it is only fair that the Finnish have the most functional and beautiful libraries in the world2. Welcome to Tallinn
Europe’s most underrated city (a stone throw away from Helsinki)3. Berlin's Top 16
A cut-throat shortlist for a multi-sensory city with too many things to do, see, eat, and listen