Conquering China’s Most Dangerous Mountain
Just like there are many roads that lead to Rome, there are plenty of ways to reach and conquer Hua Shan. Here’s mine
Hua Shan 华山 is a sacred Taoist site, infamously known as the most dangerous out of the Five Great Mountains of China. While it is now mostly paved, the endless stairs and constantly changing elevation means that Hua Shan is still not for the fainthearted. Here are a few things you need to note before making your way to this sacred mountain:
1. Vertical Steps and Cliffs
There were a couple of climbs mostly where the steps were so steep that you had to pull your body up with a chain, mostly found between North to Central peak (more about the different peaks later). However, now that this is no longer a pure Taoist pilgrimage route but rather a tourist-friendly site even for the elderlies, some of these vertical stone steps were also accompanied by a perfectly safe timber staircase next to it.
Do know that some of the steps were still pretty steep with no alternative route. I initially thought this climb would not be suitable for elderlies, but passing by grandpas and grandmas along the climb, some of whom even had a bad leg, convince me of the Chinese people’s grit and tenacity. I mean they did survive a century of wars and revolutions, and a famine.
While Hua Shan is completely doable for most people, there are a couple of conditions when you are better off not making a climb at all:
2. When the mountains are shrouded in mist
Hua Shan is known to be the most precipitous mountain so the fog that engulfs its peaks often cloud its dramatic view. I had a glimpse of the majestic granite peaks in the first 1/3 of my climb, however, the last 2/3 were completely engulfed in fog. So avoid climbing when it’s foggy since you won’t get to appreciate the mountain’s dramatic peaks.
3. When the steps become slippery during, or after rains
The steps in Hua Shan are mostly in stone, so they are extremely slippery when wet, making the climb extremely dangerous. Since it is located 120km away from Xi An, the weather might be different from Xi An city, so for a more accurate forecast, check the weather forecast in Hua Yin 华阴市.
4. During any Chinese holiday period
The crowd will undoubtedly be insane. You can easily spend a good part of your day on the queue to ride up and down the chairlift. I went two days after the National Holiday and still had to wait for 40 minutes to ride up the North Peak chairlift. Had I gone the day before, it could’ve easily been 3 hours.
5. The plank walk is currently non-operational
For those of you who are planning to tick the infamous cliff plank walk off your bucket list, I’m sorry to tell you that the walk is closed until further notice. The plank walk has been suspended since June 2018 when a domestic tourist unclasped their safety clip and leapt down the 2000m cliff. Yikes.
If all is well, we can now start planning how to make the most out of your day in Hua Shan.
1. Plan how you are going to arrive
Freedom?
For the independent travellers, you can take the high-speed train to/from Hua Shan North Station 华山北站 for ¥55 (30mins one way) and catch the free bus transfer to the ticket office.
Note that you also need to take the same bus back to the train station so allow ample amount of time for waiting and bus transfer to avoid missing your train. If you successfully book the train, pick up both tickets in one go.
Or convenience?
For those who prefer convenience, you can book a return bus transport from a tour agency for ¥60 (peak season ¥85). While it was convenient (pick up point in Xi An city + no bus transfer + no ticket purchase queue), it is not the most efficient in terms of time. The commuting took 2 hours and there was a long waiting time for the guide to purchase and distribute the tickets, i.e. I was picked up at 6:30 am but only started climbing at 10 am.
2. Decide on a Climbing Route
I know some of you may want to “wing it” or “play it by the ear” but there are five peaks in Hua Shan, each with its very own characteristics, and the distance among them are great. You will most likely only have one day to spend on the mountain so to avoid rushing at the end of your hike (most likely to catch your train back to Xi An), plan this route carefully with full considerations to your budget and fitness level.
As I said, each of the peaks holds their special features: East Peak is the best place to enjoy the sunrise; South Peak has the highest altitude; West Peak is known to be the most elegant; North Peak is famously known as the Cloud Terrace Peak; Middle Peak is called Jade Lady Peak.
Route 1
The chairlifts are only available in West Peak (20-minute ride — 2086 m) and North Peak (8-minute ride — 1614 m). Some people opt to ascend and descend by the West Peak chairlift since this is considered the more scenic. Do know that since the West Peak chairlift is more expensive (longer ride, higher elevation) than the North Peak chairlift, this is also the most expensive option.
Route 2
This is the most efficient route to cover all 5 peaks, which is the route that I took. Firstly, ascend by the West Peak chairlift up to the Western Peak. When you board off the chairlift, start heading from West Peak to South Peak (highest peak: 2,155m), East Peak, Central Peak, finally reaching North Peak, before finally descending by the North Peak chairlift.
This is the least strenuous version if you want to cover all five peaks in one day. Otherwise, you can do the opposite for the same cost but prepare for an incredibly long and strenuous climb from North Peak to Central Peak (the most challenging trek).
Route 3
You can go the true devout Taoist way. Forget the chairlift all the way and climb the 1800 m from the ticket office to the North Peak on a 12km trek. This route alone will take 4 to 5 hours, excluding the trek to any other peak. Only do this if you plan to only see the North Peak, or spend the night on the mountain.
Cost Breakdown:
A Trip to Hua Shan is costly, I ended up spending ¥410 on the mountain access alone. The breakdown is as follows:
- Hua Shan entry ticket ¥130
- Shuttle bus to Western Peak Chairlift ¥40 – 40-minute one-way ride
- Western Peak Chairlift ¥140
- Northern Peak Chairlift ¥80
- Shuttle bus from Northern Peak Chairlift ¥20 — 20-minute one-way ride
The shuttle buses are compulsory to access the chairlifts. So if you are doing Route 3 which doesn’t include any chairlift, you only need to pay for the ¥130 Hua Shan entry ticket.
I hope this has helped plan your outing to Hua Shan. If you find your way here, you are probably also seeing Xi An so check out my comprehensive guide on how to sample the rich history of this ancient capital of China.
This post is part of the Life in China series.1. China Survival Guide
Apps that will make your Chinese experience a whole lot better2. China Through Films
Cinematic trips into the voyage of the breathtaking world of traditional and contemporary China, and whatever lies in between3. Obscure Parks of Beijing
This city that may seem barren at first, hides within it, plenty of picturesque green pocketsI hope they will help you begin to understand this mind-boggling country.
