Lijiang, The Gateway to Shangrila
For centuries, Li Jiang was a federation of closely-knit villages. Don’t miss these 3 villages for a glimpse of old Lijiang.
Lijiang means the Beautiful River, which refers to the great River of the Golden Sand, more popularly known as the Yangtze, which flows to the west and east of the town and forms the vast loop in which Lijiang is situated.
Being so easily accessible from Dali (1.5–2.5 hour by train or car), Li Jiang is a popular gateway to Yun Nan’s wilderness of Shangrila and Tiger Leaping Gorge (one of China’s best hiking adventure). Since its UNESCO World Heritage listing in 1997, Li Jiang’s tourism has been increasing over the past twenty years — now receiving over 8 million tourists a year.
Na Xi People 納西
If Dali is home for the Bai people, Lijiang is home for the Naxi — an ethnic group that inhabits the foothills of the Himalayas in the northwestern part of Yunnan 云南 province as well as the southwestern part of Si Chuan 四川 province. The Naxi, along with Bai and Tibetans, used to trade over the dangerous overland trading links with Lhasa and India, on the Ancient Tea Horse road.
Na Xi culture is largely based on its Dongba religion which is fundamentally about the relationship between nature and man. For example, in Dongba mythology, “Nature” and “Man” are half-brothers.
Mo Suo People 摩梭
Even though the official Chinese government classifies Mo Suo as part of the Na Xi ethnic group, neither ethnicity support this categorization. Although both groups are descendants of the Qiang people and their languages are strikingly similar, they are culturally distinct. The Na Xi is more influenced by the patriarchal Han Chinese culture, while the Mo Suo is more influenced by Tibetan culture and its matriarchal family practices. To better understand Mo Suo’s matrilineal society, watch this documentary by Vice.
For centuries, Li Jiang was really a federation of closely-knit villages. This has influenced the current landscape of towns and villages in the Greater Li Jiang — they are distinct, each one is special to their characteristics.
Da Yan 大研
This first old town is the one that people usually assume as the Old Town in Li Jiang. The ancient town complex has been extensively redeveloped gearing towards a commercial appeal for Han Chinese tourists. Genuine old buildings are actually now in the minority. Most of the stores sell similar items and the town is very packed. There is even a row of bars with ear-deafening music on the northern side of the city.
In the midst of walking away to avoid this crowd, I stumbled upon a petite bar in a quiet alleyway. So do the same and you will find a similar gem. Needless to say, the southern side of the city is more charming than the north.
Shu He 束河
This second one is a small village 4km to the north of Li Jiang ancient town complex. It has similar old architecture as Li Jiang but Shu He’s major advantage is that it is relatively unknown, so there is much less crowd. It is developed more respectfully with exquisite local designer shops and charming tea houses. With bespoke accommodations scattered across the village, it makes the perfect base to explore Li Jiang.
Bai Sha 白沙
Bai Sha is an even quieter, traditional Na Xi village, near Jade Dragon Snow Mountain 玉龙雪山 Yu Long xue shan. It is accessible by bike from Li Jiang ancient town (12km) or Shu He (5km). The Na Xi architecture is mostly influenced by a number of groups such as Han, Bai and Tibetan. Make sure to visit the mural painting in Bai Sha Village and the school where tapestry craft is being revived.
Yu Hu Cun 玉湖村
Located right at the southern foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Yu Hu Cun is a village recommended by my taxi driver. The village maintains a genuine Na Xi authenticity with houses made of a unique stone called monkey head. The stone is comprised of a substance between stone and mud. The village landscape is characterised by Yu Hu lake that’s surrounded by meadows. The lake is filled with water coming from the melted snow in the mountains.
Joseph Rock, an Austrian American geographer chose this place to live when he came in 1922 and lived in Lijiang for 27 years. In the village, one can still see the houses he lived in and many of the daily tools he used. His work, a large number of his photos and articles depicting Lijiang published in National Geographic, was instrumental in introducing West Yunnan to the rest of the world.
While here, you can visit the nearby Yu Feng Monastary, Jade Water Village, and Dongba Gardens. Spend a night at the Naxi homestay-style guesthouse, where you can eat with the family and have an experience of really living in a village.
Ji dou bean 鸡豆
Ji dou is a special bean in Lijiang which only grows in high elevation and has very low output. In summer, one can eat Jidou bean jelly cold. The bean jelly is cut into slices before being mixed with condiments (like Xi An’s liang pi 凉皮). In winter, the bean jelly slices are pan-fried until it turns gold and then added with different condiments. You can sample ji dou bean and other Li Jiang specialties in 88好小吃店 in the Li Jiang Da Yan ancient town.
Li jiang marinated rib hot pot
Unlike its Sichuan or Mongolian counterparts, the Na Xi-style hot pot broth here is clear and light, bubbling with your choice of smoked pork ribs. The pork ribs are marinated using a secret recipe before being boiled in water with potato, bean sprout, melon, tomato. No sauce is added, just pure goodness of fresh meat. My Airbnb host told me ONLY try this dish at 阿婆腊排骨, located just outside the north gate of the ancient town.
This post is part of the Life in China series.1. China Survival Guide
Apps that will make your Chinese experience a whole lot better2. Ancient Towns of Dali2. China Through Films
Cinematic trips into the voyage of the breathtaking world of traditional and contemporary China, and whatever lies in between.3. Best Things to do in Hangzhou
Because this city is more than just the West LakeI hope they will help you begin to understand this mind-boggling country.
