The Practical Guide to Azerbaijan

Index

1. Azerbaijan, the Land of Carpet and Oil

2. Books about Azerbaijan

3. Azerbaijan v Armenia (20th-21st century)

4. Sheki

5. Azerbaijan Google maps

Planning Your Trip

💡 Before you visit:

1. 💱 Currency:
   • The official currency is the Manat (AZN).
   • Cards are widely accepted in Azerbaijan, especially in Baku. However, if you’re planning to travel outside the capital, it’s a good idea to carry some cash.
   • Tip: I recommend using a Wise card for payments to get the best exchange rates and XE to compare currency conversion rates.
2. 💬 Language:
   • The primary language spoken is Azerbaijani, which is quite similar to modern Turkish.
   • Turkish speakers can comfortably navigate Azerbaijan using their native language.
3. 🕌 Religion:
   • Azerbaijan is predominantly Muslim (97.3%), with approximately: 60–65% Shia Muslims; and 35–40% Sunni Muslims
   • Small communities follow Russian Orthodox and Armenian Orthodox Christianity.
   • Zoroastrian traditions also remain woven into the country’s cultural fabric.
   • Importantly, Azerbaijan is considered the most secular Muslim-majority country in the world. For example, my friend from Baku has never visited a mosque in his life.
   • Alcohol is widely consumed, but pork is rarely available, making Azerbaijan a popular destination for Pakistani tourists — a group I4. frequently encountered during my stay in Baku.
4. ☁️ Weather:
   • Summers are hot, and winters are windy.
   • Summer (July-August): Avoid being outdoors between 12–3 PM. I once spent just 15 minutes walking on the Bulvar and ended up needing an afternoon nap to recover from heat fatigue. However, mornings and late afternoons are pleasant for strolls.
   • Winter: Best avoided, as Baku is the windiest city in Eurasia, often referred to as the “City of Winds.”
5. 🛢️ Economy:
   • Gas and oil dominate Azerbaijan’s economy, contributing to: 2/3 of the GDP; 90% of export revenues; and 60% of national finances
   • Azerbaijan is one of the top ten most fossil fuel-dependent economies in the world.
   • While early oil production came from onshore fields, modern facilities are mostly offshore in the Caspian Sea.
   • Neighboring Caspian Sea countries — Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, Iran, and Turkmenistan — rely heavily on oil and gas, which collectively contribute over 10% of their GDP and account for approximately 40% of their exports.
6. 🚰 Water:
   • When I asked whether the tap water in Baku is safe to drink, I received mixed answers. Some locals and travelers said yes, others said no.
   • Here’s what I learned: the water quality is generally fine, but the pipes might not be. The water itself goes through proper filtration and treatment processes before reaching homes and businesses. The real issue lies with the pipes and taps. In older buildings, the plumbing systems might be outdated, corroded, or poorly maintained, which can introduce contaminants into the water supply.
   • Tap water is often safer in hotels and modern buildings, but ask the staff for confirmation. If you’re unsure, boiling the water before drinking is a reliable option. When in doubt, bottled water is the safest choice and is widely available and affordable in Baku. Play it safe if you’re unsure.

When You Arrive

🚕 Transport:

• Get Baku Card. You can get the public transport card at the airport or metro stations downtown, but the airport security guard was very helpful. There are two types: plastic card (2 AZN) which can be recharged — and the cost of fare depends on the distance; and paper card (0.4 AZN) which canNOT be recharged and only valid for 2 days — are only available in increments of one, two, three, or four passes.
• Rideshare: Bolt and Yango. Bolt is Estonian and Yango is Russian — Bolt has much better UI and easier to pick your address from but Yango can be cheaper especially for intercity rides.
• Fun fact: There are a lot of Korean cars on the road. In 2021 Toyota led the market with year-on-year volume increase of 110.57%, followed by Hyundai at 85.43% and Kia at 118.17%. I suspect this is largely due to global auto trading platform for anyone who wants to import used vehicles online directly from South Korea, Autowini. You’ll also see Soviet Lada just outside the city, especially in your road to the desert to see the mud volcanoes.

Icherisheher Old Town

I loved this old town so much I came back 3–4x. I really recommend joining a walking tour with Gani who shared not only historical insights of the city but also how it influences societal construct of contemporary Azerbaijan, as well as mean restaurant reviews.

Old Town Landmarks (priority):

• The Palace of the Shirvanshahs 🎫. This UNESCO Heritage listed palace was built by the Shirvanshahs dynaty (861 to 1538) and described by UNESCO as “one of the pearls of Azerbaijan’s architecture”. Shirvanshah dynasty who were originally Arab and later Persianized.

Allow for 1–2 hour to explore the grounds, it is the most extensive landmarks in the Old City. If you have the time, I suggest you purchase the combined ticket with Tahir Salahov house and Gasimbey underground hamam museum (both located in the Old Town).

• Maiden Tower 🎫. Noone knows its origin for sure or its function, but people are certain it was one of the original buildings of Baku right by the water. Some suspect it’s for defense, some astronomy and many tales revolve around a maiden who killed herself refusing to marry.
• Museum Miniature of Books (free). This private museum entered the Guinness Book of Records as the largest collection of miniature books in the world. Here, you can see miniature of the Quran, prayer books of the 19th century, books about arts, fairytale and even Soviet literature.
• Juma Mosque (free but women cannot enter, if I understood the locals correctly). The carvings on the mosque’s gate facade from 18th century is beautiful but even more jaw-dropping is the view- from its gate, look towards the city and you will see the postcard viewpoint of the Old Town caravanserai buildings framing the ultra modern Flame Tower.
• Gasimbey Bath Complex
• Bukhara Caravanserai

Old Town Landmarks (optional):

• Hamam: Ağa Mikayil Hamamı and Taze Bey Bath are still operating to this day — some days are allocated for men and women. Check the days at the door.
• Tahir Salahov Museum: the artist that was renowned for painting the scenes of oil boom in Baku
• Philharmonia Garden (Filarmoniya Bağı), sometimes called Gubernator’s or Governor’s Park, is located next to Baku fortress. The park was established beginning in 1830; ship’s captains coming from Iran were asked to bring a sack of soil to add to it. It’s a nice spot to refill your water bottle and relax in the afternoon.

Tip: Book your day trip from the operator around Old Town

If you haven’t got your day trip booked, there will be many tourist operator employees who will hand you out booklet. They are generally quite friendy, most of them young, and happy to practice their English with you. Since I was in Icherisher for multiple days, I collected brochure from all travel companies and told them so, they are generally pretty friendly once I told them I’ve got their brochure. Some tours don’t run everyday, like Sheki.

The tour is a simple tour with a van, which was generally quite full in the summer ( no spare seat of van). If there are two of you, consider getting private tour with them as the price doesn’t vary by much from the group tour.

Nizami Neighbourhood

This neighbourhood is the thriving European style neighbourhood built during the Oil Boom eras. Now adorned by bars, clubs, cafes and restaurants, some of the buildings built during this era was not just about wealth — it was about leaving a legacy in stone and mortar.

Behind many grand buildings are stories of generosity, love, and greed that shaped the city’s architectural landscape. Here are some of my favourites:

🏛️ 1. National Museum of History of Azerbaijan

➤ Story of a Generous Millionaire: Haji Zeynalabdin Taghiyev
• Who was he? Haji Zeynalabdin Taghiyev was one of the wealthiest oil barons of Baku and a celebrated philanthropist.
• The Building: Originally built as his personal residence in 1895–1901, designed by Polish architect Józef Płoszko in the Neo-Renaissance style.
• The Story: Taghiyev was deeply committed to social causes. Despite being illiterate, he funded schools, mosques, and infrastructure projects and even paid for young women to receive education abroad.
• Legacy: After the Bolshevik takeover, his mansion was repurposed into the National Museum of History of Azerbaijan.
• Key Detail: The palace showcases lavish European-style interiors, including a mirror room inspired by the Palace of Versailles.
• Tip: This is my favourite museum in Baku.
• Ticket: 15 manat for adults. I recommend spending an extra 15 manat for the guide, especially if you are a group of 2–4.

🕌 2. Ismailiyya Palace

➤ Story of a Loving Husband: Musa Naghiyev
• Who was he? Musa Naghiyev was one of the richest oil barons in Baku, known for his ruthlessness in business but deep love for his family.
• The Building: Designed by Polish architect Józef Płoszko in Venetian Gothic style in 1913.
• The Story: Naghiyev built this majestic palace in memory of his son, Ismail, who died young from tuberculosis. The palace was meant to honor Ismail and serve as a charitable building for the Muslim Charity Society.
• Legacy: The building is an architectural gem, with intricate stone carvings and Gothic-style pointed arches. Today, it houses the Azerbaijan National Academy of Sciences.
• Key Detail: It’s said that Naghiyev’s grief was so profound that he spared no expense to create a timeless masterpiece.

🏰 3. The Palace of Happiness (Mukhtarov’s Mansion)

➤ Story of a Loving Husband: Murtuza Mukhtarov
• Who was he? Murtuza Mukhtarov was another prominent oil baron, known for his ambition and wealth.
• The Building: Built in 1911–1912 in the Neo-Gothic style by Polish architect Józef Płoszko.
• The Story: Mukhtarov built this palace as a gift for his wife, Liza Khanum, after she admired a similar building during their travels in Europe.
• Tragic End: During the Soviet invasion of Baku in 1920, soldiers entered the palace. Mukhtarov, refusing to let his home be taken, reportedly shot three soldiers before taking his own life.
• Legacy: The palace was later renamed the Palace of Happiness and used as a Wedding Palace during the Soviet era. Nowadays, this is place couple got married in.
• Key Detail: The palace’s design reflects a fairy-tale Gothic aesthetic, making it one of Baku’s most romantic landmarks.

💰 4. The Greedy Millionaire — Musa Naghiyev Again

➤ Story of Relentless Greed and Control
• Who was he? Musa Naghiyev, despite his love for his son, was also notoriously greedy and ruthless in business.
• The Building: The Mailov Brothers’ Theatre (now Azerbaijan State Academic Opera and Ballet Theatre) was commissioned after a bet.
• The Story: Naghiyev refused to build a theater, believing it wasn’t profitable. However, two competing oil barons funded the theater, and Naghiyev, out of spite and jealousy, attempted to overshadow their contribution with grander construction projects.
• Key Detail: While he built remarkable structures, his employees and workers often suffered under harsh conditions and low pay.

🇦🇿 Other Things to Do in Baku

1. 🏙️ Flame Towers

Inspiration: Symbolize Azerbaijan’s moniker, “The Land of Fire,” reflecting the country’s historical connection to fire worship (yes, Zoroastrianism had a presence here) and its abundant natural gas reserves.
Design: Three flame-shaped towers dominate the skyline.
What’s Inside: Fairmont Baku Hotel; luxury residential apartments; and premium offices.
• Tip: The towers are most impressive at night when illuminated with dynamic LED displays.

2. 🏛️ Heydar Aliyev Center

• Architect: Designed by Zaha Hadid Architects following a 2007 design competition.
• Purpose: A cultural hub symbolizing Azerbaijan’s forward-looking vision.
• What Inside:
📚 Baku’s History and Legacy of Heydar Aliyev — A tribute to Azerbaijan’s third president (father of the current president).
🎨 Contemporary Art Exhibitions — Rotating global and local art displays. If you are lucky, you might Faig Ahmed’s artworks based on carpet — his works were being exhibited in MoMA New York when I was in Baku dang it!
🧵 Cultural Azeri Artifacts: Musical instruments, clothing, carpets (a personal favorite! this exhibition is beautiful!).
🏗️ Architectural Maquettes: Models of iconic Azerbaijani landmarks (another favourite!).
• Tip: Plan to spend at least 2–3 hours exploring the exhibitions.

3. 🕌 Bibi-Heybat Mosque

• History: Originally built in the 13th century by Shirvanshah Farrukhzad II Ibn Ahsitan II, the mosque was destroyed by the Bolsheviks in 1934 and reconstructed in the 1990s.
• Significance: Houses the tomb of Ukeyma Khanum, a descendant of the Islamic Prophet Muhammad.
• Architecture: A masterpiece of Islamic architecture in Azerbaijan with ornate designs and stunning interiors.
• Tip: Visit during prayer times to experience its spiritual ambiance. Women have to cover their hair and cover their shoulders and knees.

4. 🕌 Heydar Mosque

• Design: One of the largest mosques in the Caucasus, it features elegant white stonework and grand domes.
• Best Time to Visit: At sunset or nighttime when the mosque is beautifully illuminated.
• Tip: The mosque is particularly photogenic during evening hours.

5. 🚇 Underground Metro Architecture

Baku’s metro stations are hidden gems showcasing Soviet-era grandeur and artistic design. Must-See Stations:
• Nizami Station: Named after the poet Nizami Ganjavi, known for its mosaic art and intricate tilework.
• Xalqlar Dostlugu Station: Known for its grand ceiling designs and symmetry.
• Elmler Akademiyasi Station: Reflects academic and scientific themes with beautiful murals.
• Tip: Photography is not allowed inside Baku metro stations, so enjoy the view with your eyes.

6. 🖼️ Carpet Museum

• Design: Shaped like a rolled-up carpet.
• Exhibits: Features centuries of Azerbaijani carpet-weaving tradition, including rare and historic pieces.
• Tip: Don’t miss the live carpet-weaving demonstrations. It’s next to Baku Boulevard (bulvar) and mini Venice.

7. 🌊 Baku Boulevard (Seaside Park)

• What to See: A 25 km promenade along the Caspian Sea with gardens, cafes, and Ferris wheels.
• Tip: Perfect for a sunset walk or a casual bike ride. Watch the Flame Tower from here.

8. 🛳️ Mini Venice

• What: A man-made canal network with gondolas and waterfront cafes.
• Tip: A quick stop while exploring Baku Boulevard.

9. 🎭 Azerbaijan State Academic Opera and Ballet Theatre

• History: Built during the Oil Boom Era with European architectural influences.
• Experience: Attend a ballet or opera performance for an unforgettable cultural experience.

10. 🌟 Nizami Street (Torgovaya)

• What to Do: Shop, dine, and people-watch along this pedestrianized boulevard.
• Architecture: A mix of 19th-century European facades and modern storefronts.
• Tip: Visit in the evening when the street comes alive with lights and street performers. It’s dead quiet during summer noons, as everyone is avoiding the heat.

11. 🏞️ Martyrs’ Lane (Şəhidlər Xiyabanı)

• History: A memorial dedicated to those who died during Black January (1990) and the Nagorno-Karabakh conflict.
• Viewpoint: Offers panoramic views of the Caspian Sea and Flame Towers.
• Tip: Visit during sunset for a spectacular bird’s eye view of the city. It’s also located close to the Flame Tower

12. 🛍️ Gazelli House

• Cultural and lifestyle hub, where you can find crème de la crème of Baku society
• While it’s much smaller than Port Baku, it stands out for its attention to detail, exclusivity, and carefully curated experiences: a free-to-enter gallery; wellness centers; fancy cafés and restaurants (I had really good Italian meal here),

Curated Itinerary

If you are short on time, here’s a perfect itinerary for you to explore Baku:

Day 1

1. Morning: Icherisheher Old Town
2. Lunch: Kurban Said restaurant, or La Quzu restaurant (the eggplant salad is to die for, this is a pretty recent invention but my oh my dare I say it’s the best Azerbaijani discovery since oil)
3. Museum: National Museum of History (housed in an oil baron’s former house, and the setting of the ballroom scene of Ali and Nino movie)
   Cafe: Nizami neighbourhood
4. 1 hour before sunset: Hitch a ride on the Baku Funicular to Highland Park. Walk the war cemetery, Martyrs’ Lane and visit the homage to Zororastrianism the fire tower Shahidlar Monument before arriving at viewpoint to see a panoramic view of Baku city and the Caspian Sea at golden hour. Descend the stairs and take a stroll along the Bulvar promenade, which is beautiful at twilight. Stroll along Bulvar, pass or replenish at the Soviet structured Mirvari Kafe (Cafe Pearl). Optional: Just beyond the manicured parks and fountains, you’ll find the same Soviet-style apartment blocks.
5. Dinner: Kitschy but fun Dolma Restaurant for dinner (order the dolma and the pumpkin plov)
6. Post Dinner: Quiet glass of Azerbaijani wine at KEFLI (the trendiest wine bar in the city), or jazz session at ETUD

Day 2

1. Morning: Yasil Bazar
2. 11am-3pm: Heydar Aliyev Museum
3. Afternoon: Carpet Museum and the bulvar
4. Evening: Nizami Street

Day 3 (Optional)

1. National Museum of Literature
2. Gazelli House

Outside Baku

1️⃣ Gobustan Mud Volcano, Ateshgah Fire Temple, Yanar Dag (UNESCO Site)

🕒 Duration: 1 Day
🚗 Transport:
• From Baku: Private car or guided tour is highly recommended. If you are in a group of 2 or more, consider getting private tour as the price doesn’t vary much from the group tour.
• Public Transport: Limited, but you can use a taxi for short distances.

📍 What to See:
• Gobustan Mud Volcanoes: Witness bubbling mud pools and unique volcanic landscapes. You will have to get off the van to take private taxi (10 extra manat) which are usually the Soviet Lada to cross the desert and get to the mud volcano. Tip: Collect the mud for mud mask.
• Gobustan Petroglyphs (UNESCO): Over 6,000 ancient rock carvings depicting hunting, dancing, and daily life.
• Ateshgah Fire Temple: A 17th-century Zoroastrian temple with an eternal flame, symbolizing Azerbaijan’s fire-worshipping heritage.
• Yanar Dag (“Burning Mountain”): A hillside that has been perpetually on fire due to natural gas seeping from the earth. The tale is that someone dropped a cigarette butt, and it has been burning since. It’s the smaller version of Turkmenistan’s Gate of Hell.

✨ Tip: Start early from Baku to fit the sites into one day.

2️⃣ Khinalig (UNESCO Site)

🕒 Duration: 2 Days Minimum
🚗 Transport:
• From Baku: Private car or organized tour is the most reliable option. The roads are steep and winding.
• Recommended Route:
Day 1: Baku > Candy Cane Mountain > Beshbarmag Mountain > Quba Carpet Workshop (Lunch in Quba) > Gechresh Forest > Gudialchay Gorge > Khinalig
Day 2 Option A: Hike Khinalig-Galakhudat Trail (7–8 hours / 16 km)
Day 2 Option B: Drive Khinalig > Laza Waterfall > Baku

📍 What to See:
• Ancient Village: Khinalig is one of the oldest continuously inhabited mountain villages, perched at 2,300 meters (7,500 ft).
• Culture & Language: The villagers speak their own language and maintain unique traditions.
• Köç Yolu Route: Witness the seasonal migration route for livestock across a 200 km (120 mi) trail.
• Scenic Drive: Enjoy stunning views of the Caucasus Mountain Range and spot flocks of sheep on dried-out riverbeds.
• Unique Population: The villagers appear distinctly European, possibly reflecting an indigenous Caucasian lineage untouched by Persian influence.

✨ Tip: Roads might occasionally be closed. If hiking isn’t an option, spend time exploring the village and soaking in the mountain views.

3️⃣ Absheron Peninsula

🕒 Duration: 0.5 Day
🚗 Transport:
• From Baku: Easily accessible by car or taxi.

📍 What to See:
• Beaches: Popular for middle-class Bakuvians looking for a quick getaway.
• Holiday Homes: Scattered across the coastline, showcasing Azerbaijan’s holiday culture.
• Wildlife Alert: Watch out for snakes, especially in the less crowded areas.
• Combination Tip: Combine Absheron Peninsula with Ateshgah Fire Temple and Yanar Dag for an efficient itinerary.

✨ Tip: Visit in the morning or late afternoon to avoid midday heat.

4️⃣ Quba

🕒 Duration: 1 Day
🚗 Transport:
From Baku: A 2–3 hour drive by car or taxi.

📍 What to See:
• Quba Carpet Workshop: Witness traditional Azerbaijani carpet weaving.
• Apple Orchards: Known for its apple production, try fresh local fruit.
• Gechresh Forest: A peaceful stop surrounded by nature.
• Qechresh Gorge: Stunning scenery and a serene atmosphere.
✨ Tip: Quba is a great stopover on the way to Khinalig.

5️⃣ Sheki (UNESCO Site)

🕒 Duration: 2 Days Minimum
🚗 Transport:
• From Baku: A 4–5 hour drive by car or shared taxi. My roadtrip ended up taking SEVEN hours due to road closure. TL;DR: I wouldn’t recommend traveling over 7 hours just to see Sheki — unless you’re planning to continue your journey into Georgia via the land border, as Sheki serves as a convenient gateway.
• Public Transport: Marshrutkas (minibuses) are available but less comfortable for long distances.

📍 What to See:
• Sheki Khan’s Palace: A masterpiece of Persian and Azerbaijani architecture with stained glass windows and intricate murals.
• Sheki Cuisine: Try Piti (a traditional lamb stew cooked in clay pots).
• Silk Workshops: Discover the city’s silk-weaving traditions.
• Gateway to Georgia: Sheki serves as a connection to Tblisi via the Sighnaghi wine region.

✨ Tip: Spend the night in one of Sheki’s traditional caravanserais for an authentic experience.