The Preserved Chinese Ancient Town of Pingyao
600 of history of Ming and Qing dynasties, sacred Taoist temples, mountain caves, and more
Even though Pingyao was once the prosperous banking capital of China, the town along with its 4,000 ancient buildings were dilapidated way before 1980. When the Communists came to power in 1949, there were 2,000 walled cities in China. However, in 1980 the government started demolishing old buildings to ‘modernize’ its cities. Alas, almost all city walls were left to crumble or actively torn down. Except for Pingyao …
To stop Pingyao’s demolitions, urban planning expert Ruan Yisan, a professor of ancient town studies and protection at Shanghai-based Tongji University went to Beijing to lobby the central authorities. He also provided an urban planning project solution in the construction and cultural relics protection departments. Lo and behold, Pingyao has the last laugh — it was granted a UNESCO World Heritage title in 1998, nor proudly boasting its intact history.
Ancient Town 古镇 gu zhen
Not only Pingyao is the only town that retains its full original 400-year-old city wall, but it was also the location of the first bank in China, Rishengchang Former Bank. While the old town is now filled with numerous bank museums and tourist shops, you can still enjoy the old town and visit the former bank and the busy Ming-Qing street.
In addition to past conservation projects, there are also ongoing efforts to integrate ancient Ping Yao in modern China, for example through film and art festival. So check the schedule of these festivals and you might see the town at its liveliest.
Cost:
¥125 for a combo ticket covering most sights within the old town (valid for 3 days).
Half price ticket for Chinese undergrads with valid ID, and free admission for seniors over 60 years old.
Encore Pingyao又见平遥 You Jian Ping Yao
Located 5–10 minute walk outside of the ancient town, this larger-than-life immersive theater show tells the story of the famous Banker Mr Zhou who sent 232 Body Guards to rescue the son of Mr Wang from his Bank Branch in Russia. The interactive show encapsulates the historical experiences of Ping Yao & Shan Xi by showing incredible street scenes of Ping Yao daily life with rich visual effects, costumes, lighting and artistry.
It is one of the 7 Impressions show series, which are known for its impressive staging and performance. You shouldn’t miss them if you are in town. I, unfortunately, did since the tickets were sold out during the national holiday.
While Impression shows have the signature of using natural landscape to set the stage, Encore Pingyao is the only show housed inside a new purpose-built theater. The theater is modelled like a movie studio with a series of ‘sets’ that the audience walks through (no seating for the first 60 minutes of the 90-minute show). It is also the only one that is interactive where some actors may even speak to you.
Cost:
¥300+ for one of the best shows you’ve ever seen in your life. Buy tickets in advance if you are here during one of the national holidays.
Un-missables Around Pingyao
Wang Compound 王家大院 Wang Jia Da Yuan
Located south of Pingyao old town, 18th century Wang Compound reveals how wealthy families lived in pre-Republic China. The family was one of the four richest families in the Qing Dynasty in Shanxi Province.
The compound is very impressive in size — there are 231 courtyards and 2,078 houses in an area of 150,000 sqm. The reason it’s so large is because it was the collective residences of ALL descendants and extended the Wang Family. Unfortunately, many belongings were confiscated during the Cultural Revolution so most of the houses are empty.
Read here to better understand Chinese courtyard house architecture. You can also see some typical Shanxi cave dwellings architecture, called yao dong窑洞, just behind the castle and Yuan dynasty Confucius temple in front of the complex.
Cost:
¥55 entrance ticket
How to get here:
Option 1: Return bus (¥17, 1 hour). You can purchase your ticket in the morning at Pingyao bus station 平遥车站 Ping Yao che zhan, on the same day you plan to visit the courtyard. FYI: Bus departs from Pingyao bus station at 7.10 am, 8.40 am and 12.40 am. The return bus departs from Wang Family Courtyard at 3.30pm and 5.20pm, or:
Option 2: Hiring a car should cost you no more than ¥250 for Wang Compound, or ¥330 if you add other attractions such as the ZhangBi fortress and Shuanglin Temple. The Zhang Bi ancient village, castle and underground tunnel lie 41km (45mins drive) south of Wang Family Compound. Surrounded by gorges on three sides and mountains on the fourth, Zhang Bi is a rather large fortress complex preserved in excellent condition. Wandering around the village is free but the accessing to the underground defence tunnels, an ancient weapons museum and a Shaolin archery exhibit, costs ¥60, or:
Option 3: Some operators do offer a combination tour of Wang Family Courtyard and Zhangbi for ¥80 but this kind of tour often feels rushed.
Qiao Family Courtyard 乔家大院 Qiao Jia Da Yuan
This is another home of the most prosperous merchant family in China. While it isn’t as large as the Wang’s (‘only’ a dozens of courtyards and a ‘meager’ 100ish rooms), Qiao Family Courtyard is apparently better decorated with more accessible interiors.
While Wang was located in the south, Qiao Family courtyard is located to the north of Pingyao old town, lying in the halfway point between Pingyao and Taiyuan (capital of Shanxi 山西 province). Qiao Zhiyong, the former resident was the most famous member of the powerful trading family with significant commercial influence beyond Shanxi.
The beauty of this compound was eternalised by Zhang Yi Mou in his movie, Raise the Red Lantern starring Gong Li. ZYM is the award-winning director who was behind the spellbinding Beijing 2008 Olympics opening ceremony and this director-actress duo produced some of the best Chinese movies of all time in terms of storyline, acting and production value, e.g. Red Sorghum, House of Flying Daggers.
There is also a 2006 Chinese TV series, Qiao’s Grand Courtyard which chronicles the life of Qiao Zhiyong with some artistic license. This TV show is still on my to-watch list, let me know if you know where to watch it.
How to get here:
Bus from Pingyao bus station (¥13yuan, 45mins, scheduled every 30mins until 6.40 pm).
Mian Mountain 绵山 Mian Shan
The mountain has been used as a summer resort since imperial times and remains the most important Taoist sites in modern China. An easy day trip from Pingyao, the scenery in Mian Shan is very unique with temples and walkways set into the vertiginous cliffs alongside a deep gorge.
Recommended sights:
- Qi Xian Valley (challenging nature-walk following winding gorge, where you’ll walk on a really rocky steep path with chains and footings set into the side of the mountain
2. Sky Ladder (a dizzying staircase set on the side of the mountain, pictured below)
3. Sky Bridge, Shui Tao Valley (easy nature walk)
Cost:
¥160 entrance ticket
¥50 bus ticket (compulsory) takes you from the main ticket office and entitles you to free transport between the sights.
¥5 map (not compulsory but highly recommended since the area is huge — 14 areas and 400 sights).
How to get here:
Option 1: Train from Pingyao to Jiexiu train station (¥7–9 for 25mins). The bus (¥11) to Mian Shan leave from in front of the train station. This is the recommended option but purchase the train ticket in advance during national holidays
Option 2: Bus (¥12 for 1 hour) from Pingyao bus station to Jiexiu bus station. The bus (¥11) to Mian Shan leave from around 300m east along Xinjian Xilu 新建西路 from the long-distance bus station in Jiexiu
Option 3: Alternatively, booking a car from Pingyao would cost around ¥350 for the return trip and can be arranged at hotels.
Hu Kou Waterfall 壶口瀑布 Hu Kou pu bu
This powerful waterfall is located at the province border between Shanxi 山西 and Sha’anxi 陕西. During the right season (May — October) when the water level is high, this upstream narrows gushes out the yellow water from … you guessed it — China’s second-largest river, the Yellow River 黄河.
这里，黄河以万马奔腾之势滚滚向前
Here, the yellow river surges onward like ten thousand horses galloping forward
The distance from Pingyao in Shan Xi to Hukou is significantly closer to Xi’an in Sha’anxi to Hukou, so if you find yourself in PY, do spare a day to visit the fall.
How to get here:
- Train from Pingyao to Linfen. Be very early at the station if you are doing a day trip.
- Shared taxi to Hukou Falls. Taxis are waiting outside of Linfen train station and departing when full (3–4 passengers). It wasn’t expensive as I had another couple to share the costs with. Taxis will wait for up to two hours at the falls before taking you back to Linfen train station.
This post is part of the Life in China series.1. China Survival Guide
Apps that will make your Chinese experience a whole lot better2. China Through Films
Cinematic trips into the voyage of the breathtaking world of traditional and contemporary China, and whatever lies in between.3. Qinghai Road Trip
The Qinghai ring road, beautiful rape flowers, lush grasslands, Tibetan temples, and more.I hope they will help you begin to understand this mind-boggling country.
