Welcome to Tallinn
Europe’s most underrated city
As per the advice from my Romanian friend, I hopped on the ferry from Helsinki to Tallinn at the end of my Scandinavia tour and found myself in the most underrated city in Europe. I didn’t know a thing about Estonia and I must say, the city was one of the best surprises I had on that trip.
The Estonian capital of Tallinn emerged from the grips of the Eastern Bloc in the 20th century to become a jewel in Europe’s digital crown in the 21st century. After it declared independence from the Soviet Union in 1991, the government has wisely invested in technology and education. The country is now a top performer in PISA test. According to the 2016 result, Estonia ranked 5th after Singapore, Hong Kong, Japan, and Macao.
Not only that, but the country also tops all the necessary scorecards for digital penetration and governance. It was the first country to hold online parliamentary voting, the first to conduct e-census and the first to issue e-residency to attract digital entrepreneurs. The country is basically any tech-enthusiasts’ wet dream!
I’ll stop bombarding you with more examples of how Estonia has leapfrogged social and technological mobility. But Estonia is a perfect example of how good governance and policies make a young country safe and enjoyable to explore and live. Here are some of the best places to see the old and the new of this Estonian capital:
Old Tallinn
Toompea Hill
The UNESCO Heritage-listed Tallinn Old Town is divided into two parts: the lower town and Toompea Hill. You should not leave this city without a climb up to the hill that is at the heart of Estonian history and legend. In addition, you can catch a breathtaking panorama of the old town (as pictured) from the top of the hill.
Most of the important and famous monuments are on Toompea Hill. One of these monuments is the Saint Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, a richly decorated Orthodox cathedral. Come on Sunday and you might be fortunate to catch the Orthodox Eucharistic service. It was the first Orthodox service I ever came across and I found it very interesting as the rituals were quite different from the Protestant or Catholic church services I had attended in the past. Read here to find out why the Orthodox prayers stand for most of the service and why they cross so often.
From Toompea hill, it’s an easy walk to the government building area, where you can find the Estonian “White House”. This Estonian president’s residence is actually pink, as is the case with most government buildings in Tallinn, cause you know .. what better color is there to represent the unwavering authority of the institutionalized state?
St. Catherine’s Passage (Katariina käik)
This is one of the most picturesque laneways in Tallinn where some ancient gravestones are mounted on the wall, beneath the ancient archway. You can also find a collection of craft workshops where artists use traditional methods to make glassware, hats, quilts, ceramics, jewelry, hand-painted silk, and other wares.
This is a good opportunity to purchase handmade souvenirs. My favorite store was the glassware workshop where local pieces made by handblown glass craftsmen (and craftswomen) were sold at a very affordable price (€20 for a small candle holder). Just opposite the entrance to the monastery courtyard, you can find a coffee with great cakes whose bathroom you can use.
Dominican Monastery Claustrum
Established by Dominican monks in 1246, this small but beautiful preserved monastery is accessible from St Catherine’s Passage. The courtyard is something you’d find in storybooks with old trees and vines running up the building and staircase. Take the old, uneven staircase up to the entrance of the monastery. The pristine Medieval monastery provides a respite in the heart of tourist-packed old town, especially in the echoing meditation chamber with great acoustics. Perfect place to hum, sing, or meditate in.
After exiting back into the courtyard, if you can locate a conspicuous medieval timber door, go in and take the steps down into a local artist’s studio. I literally only found this because the music was playing from below. You can browse and purchase a handmade piece of art from the artist if you’d like.
Tallinn Legends
Located right in the town square, this theatrical interactive show recreates nine historical events and legends that have contributed to the folklore of medieval Tallinn along a 40-minute journey into the Middle Ages. The 9 terrifying Medieval stories are performed by professional actors, mechanical dolls, and 3D projection.
I’m a sucker for storytelling, interactive show, and history so obviously was super excited to see this performance, but it was darn closed on the day that I was in Tallinn (FYI: they close on Mondays and Tuesdays). Please go see it and let me know how much I had missed out #fomo. It costs €16 at the door, or you can purchase discounted tickets here.
Kiek in de Kok
This attraction has three main parts: the tower, the walls, and the passages. The tower and walls were ok but the bastion passages were the most interesting. The free audio guide (downloadable before heading underground) provides a very interesting insight into how the passages were used over the course of history.
Climb the Tower of Tallinn
Tallinn is full of Medieval towers. St Mary’s Church and Townhall are the highlights.
Tallina Linateater
If you are into horror, explore the small creepy alley near Linateater at night. There is an old abandoned mill and you can enter KGB prison nearby.
Do a free walking tour, or better yet … a ghost tour
Storytelling is always a more fun way to learn about a place.
New Tallinn
Tellivski Creative City
Estonia’s largest creative city is a vibrant bohemian hub located within a former industrial complex, located 15-minute walk away from the historic Old Town. It consists of 10 buildings that hold over 200 businesses and organizations. Telliskivi has allowed Tallinn’s artists and free spirits to reclaim a neglected part of their city and turn a drab former factory complex into an exciting part of town. ADAPTIVE REUSE AT ITS BEST!
Find some of the most amazing public artwork here. It’s a perfect place for hanging out and meeting locals, with many restaurants, cafes, and shops. On Saturdays, Telliskivi hosts the biggest flea market in Tallinn, where you can spend hours browsing through selections of artwork, antiques, and oddities. There’s also a massive annual food festival that draws in thousands of people.
PS: Flea market shopping here is so good that it may make you stop buying retail (I got a faux fur vest and a Helly Hansen raincoat for €10 each!)
Balti Jaam Turg
Another short walk from the old town, this market hall has many offerings from a fresh produce farmers market, restaurants and food stand, handicraft stores, and super cool flea and antique markets.
A super cool place to do your grocery shopping or buy souvenirs. The pizza stand on the second floor, run by a Russian actually made some very delicious ricotta spinach pizza (sorry Italians, definitely not trying appropriate your food culture here). There was also Russian halva (sweet confections made by sesame paste) shop on the first floor. And the fishmonger and butcher here were huge!
Linnahall
Built to accommodate the Moscow Summer Olympics in 1980, Estonia’s Linnahall now stands as an imposing concrete ghost town. The massive 5,000 seat amphitheater was commissioned by the Soviet Union to show the world their mastery over concrete-pouring. After the Olympics though, Estonia could not fill the thousands of seats, and soon, the poorly finished rock crumbles under the stresses of time.
It is now the perfect spot for locals and tourists to climb up the steps up to the roof of the hall, which provides a stunning view of the city.
Eats
Estonian rye bread has a 1,000-year history dating back to the time when Estonia was the main rye exporter throughout Europe. Since then, this black fermented rye bread has become a sacred ritual practiced daily by its citizens.
Since then, Tallinn food scene has flourished with affordable, high-quality restaurants. There is no excuse not to eat well here. Some of my recommendations are:
Rukis
for the best omelet, located in the Tallinn Old Town.
Rost
for the best coffee and croissant (often crowded!) in Rotermann City.
Gelato Ladies
for … gelato, duh.
Cortile
for mango gelato (which a friend swore by. I didn’t get to come here, sorry!)
Pegasus and Controvento
for vegan meals in the Old Town.
Von Krahli Aed
in the Old Town.
Tcaikovski and Art Priori
for a fancier meal in the Old Town.
F-Hoone
in the Telliskivi area.
Outside Tallinn
Kihnnu Island, the Matriarchal Island
Estonia has over 1500 islands but Kihnu is one of the most interesting ones. Since men are all of the shore fishing, Kihnu is an essentially matriarchal society with women organizing everyday life and carrying the cultural heritage of the small island. The traditional ways of the locals have also earned them the attention of UNESCO — the cultural space of Kihnu has been proclaimed a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.
The cool thing about the locals is that the women have a habit of wearing traditional clothes every day, which is unseen in most Estonia. The small island with about 600 inhabitants is an excellent getaway for a long weekend to clear your head and breathe the clear air in the midst of pine forests.
This post is part of the Europa series, which shows that Europe is more than just history.1. 24 Hours in Helsinki
As the happiest country in the world two years running, they must be doing something right. Let’s find out in 24 hours2. Oodi, The Library of the People
As the world’s most literate nation, it is only fair that the Finnish have the most functional and beautiful libraries in the world3. Berlin's Top 16
A cut-throat shortlist for a multi-sensory city with too many things to do, see, eat, and listen
